This months topic covers proof coins for collecting as well as for investment. Proof coins are my personal favorite. I’ve been collecting proofs for the last fifty years.

A lot of questions arise concerning the purchase of proof coins. In modern proof collecting from 1936 to 1942 most collectors look at the grade of each coin in the set. Many proofs in that time period were poorly struck, so grades of PF62 to PF64 were very acceptable. Grades higher like PF66 to PF68 are more scarce and a lot more costly to obtain. The higher grades, I feel, are for investment. The reason I say for investment is due mostly in part to the cost. Once obtained they hold value, and are sought after buy the collectors willing to pay the high premium for them.

No proof sets were minted from 1943 to 1949 due to World War II. Starting in 1950 the mint started issuing proofs in set again. The early 50’s proof sets are now getting very scarce to obtain. With the population of coin collecting reaching 100 Million World Wide, the modern day proof sets are demanding the highest of premiums. Proof sets in the higher grades that are cameo (frosted devices) are at the maximum premium in today’s market. Frost devices and lettering in proof coins from 1936 to 1942 are so rare only the elite of collectors have them in possession.

The purest of collectors look for no toning on all silver coins, and the reddest of reds on the Lincoln cent. Color and clarity play a huge difference in the pricing as well. Some sellers of proof coins put premiums on coins that have a hue or toning. Myself, I like them as they came from the mint, bright and shiny. Some sellers of proof coins clean the coins to remove them of coloration. Don’t be fooled. We purchase proof coins from many brokers, but only coins that are graded and certified by tier one grading companies.

Please send me an email if you have any questions concerning proof coins, I will be happy to discuss your options and the best way to purchase them for you.
-Bill Grigg